Find a Roofer
New Roofers
Stallworth Roofing - Siding
Marietta, GA
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Five Stars Roofing & Contracting Llc
Dover, NJ

Campbell Construction Corporation
Paoli, PA

Bickel Roofing Contractor
Temple, TX

Gutter Bus
Gloucester, VA

Home Style Roofing
Omaha, NE
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A-1 Roofing Inc
Olympia, WA

Nielsen Roofing
Granville, ND

Clark Builders Inc
Somerville, NJ
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Any Weather Roofing
Lakewood, CO

Holdren Roofing & Siding Inc.
Vinton, VA
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One Week Kitchens
Forty Fort, Pe
(855) 975-8200
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Walls Larry P
Raleigh, NC

Manufacturer's Specifications for Installing your New Roof

There only one right way to install a new roof. That's the way that is specified by the people that manufacture the roofing system products. There are directions printed on every bundle of roofing shingles sold. You might want to go to a local supply house and take a look at the shingles to be used on your job. You should take notes and see if the roofer has a good grip on what the manufacturer’s have to say. If your roof is not installed to the manufacturer’s specifications, your roofing material warranty will be invalidated.

Here are some things that you should think about when having a new roof put on your home.

1. Avoid laying a new roof over an old one unless your budget allows for nothing else. If the old roof isn't removed the following should be considered: The decking can't be inspected for deterioration, flashing can't be properly retrofitted without great care, the additional mass of two roofs establishes a heat bank, (heat is the enemy of the petrochemicals in your shingles and will decrease the life of your new roof) and if the old roof is unacceptably deteriorated, the manufacturer won’t honor their product warranty. Due to advances in technology shingles are made much more thinly. They tend to show off imperfections under them. Even if the old roof is sound, the new overlay can look bad unless your roofer knows exactly what he is doing and takes the time to do it.

2. Specify the use of drip edges, step flashing and counter-flashing unless your budget is tight and your roofer agrees that these measures are not absolutely necessary in your particular situation. Cut-counter flashing with a V-Lock drive should always be used on masonry. If the person you’re doing business with isn’t familiar with these concepts, and can’t give you a clear explanation, you should be polite and don't do business with them.

3. Roofing felt is recommended by all roofing manufacturers for the following reasons: Felt is an important part of the system that protects your home from water. Without the roofing felt your roofing system does not qualify for a UL Approved Class A Fire Rating. Roofing Felt provides a slip shield or buffer between your shingles and deck of your roof. In the past, felt protected organic shingles from pitch that leaked out of knots in the wood. Fiberglass shingles still have some organic petrochemicals. They still need to be protected. Some roofers don’t like to use felt because modern shingles are thin. Any wrinkle in the felt will show through. A real professional can install felt so that wrinkles aren't a problem. For others, using felt is a time consuming process to be avoided. If budget isn't a critical issue, be sure to stipulate with your roofer to use 30 lb. felt attached with simplex nails. 15 lb. felt is standard and is acceptable.

4. Valleys are to be protected with metal per manufacturer’s specifications and industry standards. Valleys need to be built with the shingles either "woven" or cut in the "closed valley system". Some prefer the "closed valley system" or "California cut" because the line of the valley is cleaner and shingles lie flatter than with the "woven" application. Another consideration is that debris tends to collect in the junction of a "woven" valley which possibly can cause a leak. When shingles are "California cut", the cut is on the side of the valley where the greatest volume of water is likely to come, not on the side of the steepest pitch. Remember, valleys are a weak point in the roofing system. Installed properly they can last the life of your roof. If they are built incorrectly, they will be a headache until they are torn out and made right.

5. Make sure your roofing shingles are being installed with the proper nailing pattern. This is not a small point. The manufacturer’s warranty will be voided if your shingles aren't nailed down properly and it's no fun when shingles start blowing off because they've not been nailed down according to specifications.

6. Galvanized roofing nails only should be used: four per shingle on typical installations, six per shingle on mansard roofs. Nails should be placed 1" in from each side and directly over each of the tab cuts. The nails should be 5/8" above the top of the tab cuts, but not inside the tar strip.

7. Insist that your roof be applied by hand, not with air tools. There are several good reasons for this: Air tools don't let the roofer feel the solid connection of the shingle to sound decking. If not adjusted precisely, air tools can shoot a staple or nail completely through a shingle. Using air tools tends to encourage speed instead of the careful adjustment of each shingle. Roofing hammers have a built-in gauge for quick reference.

8. Adequate ventilation should be designed and installed when necessary. To begin with, your manufacturer’s warranty will be voided if specified ventilation isn't provided for. Also, peeling paint, mildew, dry rot, insulation problems, and warped framing often result from poor ventilation. A professional roofer can determine the best way to ventilate your particular home in summer and winter. He should explain the merits of power vs. wind driven vs. passive systems. He should also explain how humidistats and thermostats operate. He should know requirements for make-up and exhaust air. Ventilation can be considered the most important aspect of a roofing system. Make sure your roofer knows the score with ventilation.
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